Method of making shoes



Aug. 12, 1952 A. E. MURRAY METHOD OF MAKING SHOES 2 SHEETS-SHEET 1 Filed Jan. 8. 1949 INVENTOR fllan Z. Mil/Tl ATTORNE I BYZ Aug. 12, 1952 A. E. MURRAY METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed Jan. 8. 1949 2 SHEETS-SI IEET 2 INVENTOR Alan 1?. Murray BY ATTORN Patented Aug. 12, 1952 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Alan E. Murray, New York, N. Y.

Application January 8, 1949, Serial No. 69,887

Claims.

My invention relates particularly to 'a method of making an improved type of shoe, or other footwear, as well as the product thereof.

The object of my invention is to provide a method and product in shoe making whereby the shoes may be made more expeditiously. and even by the wearer for his own use. A further object is to make shoes of the above character. by simple fabrics and molding materials, enabling the shoes or other footwear to be produced at a very low cost,within reach of the public generally, but which, nevertheless, effectively fit the footof the individual wearer, both as to the upper as ,well as the lower portions of the shoe while avoiding undesirable arbitrary conformations therein. Still another object is to provide a method of making shoes of this type while effectively avoiding the element of shrinkage. This is a factor of very great importance in making shoes of. this type, which are constructed to fit the longitudinal as well as transverse dimensions of the foot. Shoes made in this way, therefore, avoid any undesirable shortening of the shoe which might otherwise be present due to the setting of the materials while drying.

This application is an improvement upon the subject matter of my application upon Shoes for NormalWear, Ser. No. 58,470, filed November 5,

While my invention is capable of embodiment in many different forms, for the purpose of illustration I have shown only certainformsthereof in the accompanying drawings, in which:

Fig. 1 is a plan view of a monitor sheet of material 'tobe cut out to conform to the outline of the foot of the wearer, it being understood that one of these sheets is to be made for each of the feet of the wearer;

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the weight-bearing dish shown in the course of being made; 5

Fig. 3 is a transverse section of the same taken on line 3-3 of Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 is a rear elevation of the weight-bearing dish;

Fig. 5 is a rear elevation of the shoe in the process of being made, partly in section;

Fig. 6 is a plan view of the cover piece used in making the shoe;

Fig. '7 is a plan view of the resulting shoe;

Fig. 8 is a side elevation thereof; and

Fig. 9 is a view similar to Fig. 3, enlarged so as to show latex that has been applied between the layers.

In carrying out my invention, I provide a monitor sheet, as of cardboard, l, or any other similar material, that is preferably a non-shrinking material, such for instance as leather, on which an outline 2 is made with a pencil around each particular foot of the wearer, by resting the foot on the cardboard I and while, preferably, the wearer is seated in a chair so that the foot receives only the usual normal weight of the leg in the sitting position. The outline 2 is made with a pencil around the footby drawing a line vertically, or nearly vertically, below or just outside the outermost perimeter or width of the foot. The cardboard I is then cut out to provide, as a monitor, a foot-shaped top sole piece of cardboard 3 along the outline 2. The cardboard piece 3 is then brushed with any desired adhesive, but preferably a thick neoprene latex. In this connection, I prefer to use 'a self-vulcanizing latex or selfvulcanizing synthetic rubber substitute, as for instance neoprene, which latex is in the form of liquid, that is to say a water suspension of the rubber or rubber substitute prepared so as to be self-vulcanizing when allowed to set. .Also, I prefer to use two different strengths or consistencies of the said liquid latex, which I may denominate for the purpose herein as #1-thin latex having the consistency of thick milk #2-thick latex having the consistency of. a very heavy cream.

These are both Well known commercially available liquids. known as neoprene latex, and which will, for convenience, bereferred to hereinafter merely as latex. Thereupon, I provide a first piece *4 or layer of cloth or any other desired fabric, although for this purpose I prefer. monks cloth, which is a thick loosely woven fabric. It will be understood, however, that throughout the difierent steps in this application I may use practically any kind of cloth or fabric, though preferably woven, for constructing the shoe, although, as before stated, monks cloth is preferred for mose of the pieces of cloth utilized, except the second piece made. of burlap and the eighth piece and sole layers made of terry cloth, a well known material having looped pile, as hereinafter referred to.

The first piece of monks cloth 4 is then. dusted with plaster of Paris and it is then applied over the top of the stiff monitor foot-shaped top sole piece of cardboard 3 having the thick latex thereon. This first piece of monks cloth 4 is then cut off closely around the entire edge of the cardboard piece 3. I

A second piece of cloth 5, preferably of burlap,

is then dusted with plaster of Paris and after the upper surface of the first piece 4 has been coated with the thick latex the said piece of burlap is applied to the upper Surface of said first piece 4. The burlap layer 5 is then cut off closely around the entire margin of the cardboard piece 3.

Thereupon, a third piece of cloth 6, preferably of monks cloth, is powdered with plaster of Paris, the upper surface of the second piece 5 is coated with the thick latex and the third piece 6 is then applied over the burlap 5. This third piece 6 is also trimmed off closely around the entire edge of the cardboard 3.

I then prepare a fourth piece of monks cloth 7' 7 having a wide margin of about 1 to 1 /2 extending around the entire edge of the cardboard piece 3, this fourth piece being powdered with plaster.

of Paris and applied over the top of the third piece of monks cloth 6 after the latter has beencoated with the thick latex. Thereupon, with an indelible pencil, the point of which has been made wet, I draw a line 8 on top of the fourth pieceof monks cloth 1 conforming to the .margin of the cardboard piece 3. Then I draw a second line 9, similarly, on top of the fourth piece of monks cloth 1 and about inside the'line 8, but located only about 21" inside the line 8 opposite.

to the arch portion of the foot.

Now I paint the thick latex onto the entire area of the fourth piece 1 within the inner line 9 and I provide another, or fifth piece, of monks cloth II! which, also, has a similar wide outer margin. This piece of monks cloth I0 is dusted with plaster of Paris and then applied over the entire area within the line 9.

Thereupon, I provide a body of finely divided materials, such for instance as cotton flock that has been deoiled to provide a body of, preferably, pure cellulose, such for instance as that prepared for'nitration in the production of nitrocellulose. Or, instead, .I can use any other fibres, such as wool, linen, rayon, kapok or milkweed, which have, preferably, been similarly purified. Or, I may even use for this purpose ordinary absorbent cotton which has, preferably, been cut into short fibres, for instance long. Or, I can even use old rags which may have been washed, but which need not, however, even have been washed, but which have been dried and cut up into similar small pieces or lengths. For this purpose I may even use any other finely divided materials, such for example as wood flour. This body of finely divided material is then mixed with the thick latex to the consistency of a wet mud, which may,

for instance, be of the kind described in detail in my application Ser. No. 58,470, above referred to. This mud is then formed into a marginal packing or luting ll all around the margin of the shoe between the layers l0 and I, as shown in Fig. 3, the mud being worked into place in any desired way, for instance with the aid of a spatula or a kitchen knife, while the foot rests on the fifth piece Ill.

The foot is now rested on top of the fifth layer of monks cloth l0, care being taken to place the foot accurately thereon so that the margin of the foot conforms to the margin of the cardboard piece 3.

Now, some of the thick latex is coated onto the margin or edge of the foot all around the same and the marginal portion of the fifth layer In is folded up closely around the foot, some of the wedge-shaped portions formed thereby being snipped off with a scissors from said fifth piece I0, in order to make the marginal portions of the latter fit together, edge to edge, around the perimeter of the foot on the wet latex which is carried by the margin of the foot.

Then, with the aid of a spatula or kitchen knife, the packing ll of mud or of cellulose and latex is forced around into the crevices beneath the margin of the foot so that the said mud II is caused to occupy a position, preferably, with a vertical outer face or a face inclined downwardly towards the foot somewhat, all around the margin of the foot between the fifth piece In and the fourth piece I. The mud Ii will readily adhere to the adjacent fabrics as the latex in the mud will wet the adjacent surfaces of the monks cloth pieces 10 and 1, but if there seems to be a little dryness while this is being done, some additional latex can be applied to the surfaces adjacent to the mud H, the thick latex being preferable.

In this manner the outer surface of the fifth layer In and the inner surface of the fourth layer Twill become thoroughly wet with thelatex. Also, it willbe understood that the marginal portions of the layers I and I0 contain the plaster of Paris which has been dusted onto the same previously. Thereupon, the fourth piece 1 is brought up all around the margin thereof onto the outer face of the margin of the fifth layer I 0 and pressed onto the same with the fingers all around the foot, a few wedge-shaped portions resulting therefrom being snipped off around the margin of the fourth layer 1 to bring about a correct fit between the adjacent meeting edges of the same. It is generally found sufficient to take out a couple of such wedge-shaped snips, with a scissors, at the heel and a couple of similar wedge-shaped snips at the toe portion of the fifth layer l0, and, similarly, a like number of snips may have been previously taken out from the heel and toe portions of the fourth layer, as above referred to.

It is important to note that the presence of the monitor sheet, preferably a non-shrinking stiff piece, such as the cardboard 3, or other similar material, such for instance as leather, is very effective in determining and maintaining the outer edge of the shoe which is being constructed, as this prevents distortion of the shoe margin while the layers 1 and I0 are being applied over the margin of the foot, and being allowed to set, also, similarly in the subsequent setting Of the plastic materials.

The product thus produced is then allowed to partially gel or set for about 5 to 10 minutes, which can be aided by using an electric fan, if desired. Then, the partly formed shoe is loosened from the foot lightly, with the aid of the fingers, and the foot is now taken out of the weight-bearing dish I2 thus formed.

The margin or wall around the dish is then trimmed off all around the upper margin of the same so that the remainder thereof forms a rim l3 about high, as shown in Fig. 4, but preferably slightly higher at the top portion [4 and.

to 24 hours after the foot has been removed.

This completes the first'stage of the operation:

to follow the previous shoe making practice, re-' quiring the shoe to be distinctly longer than the foot for relative adjustment of the foot and shoe as to length.

Thereupon, in the second stage of making the shoe, the foot is put back into the dish [2. A heel piece or strip [6, Fig. 5, of any desired fabric or cloth, as monks cloth for example, from 1 to 1 wide, is then applied over the back of the-foot vertically up to the top-of the shoe and extending down over the rear margin of the dish l2, after having been dusted with plaster of Paris, and after having applied the thick latex to the rear or heel of the foot and to the rear portion of the wall or margin of the dish l2.

Now, the thick latex is painted over and around the entire outer surface of the wall or margin of the dish l2 and over the entire heel piece l6. Also, an overall sixth piece I1, Fig. 6,"of monks cloth, oversized-to cover the whole top front,

sides and back of the foot, is powdered withplaster of Paris and applied over the foot down to the floor over the wet latex on the wall margin of .the dish 12, and is worked in against the cardboard piece 3 .Witha knife. Thenthe entire lower margin is trimmed off toremove all excess fabric below the cardboard 3.

Then, I apply two other dusted cover pieces,

that is to say a seventh piece [8 and an eighth" piece l9, substantially like the cover piece 11,

successively over the thick latex-coated top of theadjacent fabric faces and applied like the piece [1, except that, as shown in Fig. 5, the meeting edgesv of the cover piece l9 end a joint at the middle of the heel whereas the meeting edges of the cover pieces I1 and t8, respectively, are located, at the right and left of the middle line beneath the cover piece l9. In other words, the meeting edges of the respective three cover pieces 11, land H! are slightly staggered.

These three cover pieces l1, l8 and: I9, that is to say the sixth, seventh and eighth pieces of monks cloth, are preferably applied in the following manner: The whole top of the sixth piece I1 is powdered with plaster of Paris and the whole surface thereof is then coated with a first coat of thick latex to seal on the fabric pores or interstices, but not in a sufficient amount to penetrate through the sixth cover piece [1. This coated layer can now be subjected to a current of air to some extent by means of an electric fan, if desired. This effectively seals oif the inside of the shoe so as to leave the same clean ultimately, especially if, during the above treatment, the latex is allowed to gel for about minutes. Then, there is applied another second coat of thick latex all over the outside of the shoe on the sixth cover piece I'l. Then, there is appliedto the same the seventh layer l8 of inonks cloth, after having been previously dusted with plaster of Paris, which is pressed down on the thick latex which is still wet, that has been applied'all over the surface of layer H. The latex is now allowed to gel for about '5 minutes. Itrwill 'be understood that the back seams of each of said layers I1 and I8 will be trimmed off as they are applied, to locate the meeting edges thereof staggered, as described above and as shown in Fig. 5. Thereupon, the eighth layer of cloth I 9 is prepared, which preferably is made.

of terry cloth, that is to say having a loose weave with a loop-shaped pile, this layer 1 9 havingbeen.

previously dusted with plaster of Paris.. The whole outer surface of the shoe is then coated with thick latex and while wet the. said eighth piece is is applied allover the shoe and the rear edges are trimmed off so that the meeting edges.

thereof occupy the middle line, as shown in Fig. 5. Theresulting layers on the shoe are allowed to gel or set for from 5 to 10 minutes.

Now, a line 20 is drawn, with the indeliblepencil, from a point opposite to and in the direction'of the big toe along the upper crown of the foot vallthe way'to the top of the fabric layers thereon With a curved scissors, the said line 20 is cut all theway through thelayers of theshoe. Now,.thefoot is carefully removed from the shoe, by inserting a dull knife wherever 118C851 sary,:between the shoe and the foot but so as. to avoid deforming the shoe. Then the lowermost margins of the layers of fabric are accurately trimmed off all around the lower edge of the shoe.

Thereup'on, the two edges made along the line 20. are .wetwith the thick latex, and while supporting the said two edges from beneath, for instance with a knife, the said edges are pressed down with the fingers until they adhere together and the shoe is now allowed to set for about 12 hours in order to dry. Then, powdered plasterof Paris is applied all over the outside of the shoe with a brush or from a woven fabric bag. containing the same. The entire outer'surface of the shoe is thereafter treated so as to coat the same with the thin latex, preferably'with a brush, in order to make a coating down to the base. of the pile of the terry cloth l9 butnot so as to saturate the fabric. This is allowed to setfor about 48 hours, preferably with air circulation. However, instead, if the shoe is to be worn with a heavy wool sock, as in very cold climates, before the said thin latex is put on the outside of the shoe, the foot is placed in a thick sock and the foot with the sock thereon, is placed in the shoe and the thin coat above referred .to is put on the shoe with the front edges of the shoe held together by afstitching. Thereupon, the foot is removed from the shoe and the shoe is allowed to set as above, for about 48 hours.

With the indelible pencil a line 2! is now made around the top of the shoe, indicating the position of thefinal upper edge ofthe shoe and have ing a curved indentation 22 on the inside portion of the shoe and a deeper curved indentation 23 on the outside of the shoe, opposite. to the ankle joints. Also, said line is made with a rear indentation 24 opposite to the Achilles tendon, the rear indentation to extend up to about the level of the muscle which is connected to the Achilles tendon. The upper portion of the fabric is then cut off along the said line 2|. Also, at the front of the shoe there are strips 25 and 26 cut off at either side of the line 20, about A" wide, to make a parallel-sided interval 21 open at the front and joined together with a tapered end ajeoasas are-necessary becauseof the toughness of .the resultingcoated fabrics. T A .1

Then the stiff monitor piece of cardboard .3 preferably is pulled off from the bottom ofthe shoe to 'avoid the presence of the stiff layer in thesole-aknife beingused if necessary. to, pare off any residual strips'ofthe' cardboard 3; However, it.is to be understood that, if desired,'this monitorllayer 31may be allowed to remain, although it-is. not as advantageousto do;so, the completedshoe, and. that it may bem'ade, instead, ofiany otherrsimilar stiif or hard nonshrinking materia1,.such for instance as leather. By thistime, before the cardboard 3xis.ready to be removed, the shoewillihave set sufiiciently so thatshrinkageofthe shoe is substantially completely obviated. g

Further layers of .an toutr sole 3| may .now bemadeon or applied. to the 'shoe.. Thesermay, forinstance, be comprised of three'or fourlayers of terry cloth, such as layers 32, 33, 34iand135, the samebeing applied by dusting the respective 1ayers:and' coating with thick latexthe' areas of the layers on' which the dusted layers are to be received in applyingeach of theterry cloth layers.

32, 33, 34 and-35 to the shoe infsuccession. ,The shoe is now suspended by means of a wirewith two hooks entering any one of the :pairs of holes 29 soas to'hang the shoe, by means of thewire, from any convenient hook while the liquidrlatex fromthesole 3| is allowedtodrip, if'necessary, during the period while the latex in the layers 32, 33, 3| and 35. is beingallowed to set. This setting and dripping may be continued for about 12 hours When'the setting and dripping has continued for-about that length'of time a sockis put on the foot and the foot, with the sock, is inserted in the shoe. The shoe for. the othenfoot is also put on ma similar manner and. the wearer should now'walk'in the shoes, in: the house; for at least a few minutes in each of a plurality of occasions within a period of about ten days. However, walking outside of theho'use is not advisable during this period assduring the said period the materiaLin the course of setting, may besubiected to undue wear as a re'sult. .By the end of the said ten days, however, the shoe will. have been finished and ready for-wear generally, outside the house, etc. In order toexpedite the complction of the shoe, insteadof wating for' the ten days period-of "setting, theshoe could be worn in the house for-five. days ina current of air and then subjected tov heating in anoven, at a-temperature of aboutl50 F., for about five hours.

However, the shoe's'hould not be "cooked in the oven earlier as otherwise shrinkage might occur. As a result, a unitary integral shoe of fabric and cured rubber or artificial rubber is thus obtained quickly.

Furthermore, if desired, the shoe may be made still more quickly after the 12 hours dryingof the shoe while being suspended on the wire, by filling the entire shoe :with plaster of Paris while the opening 21 is maintained closedwith a piece of adhesive tape such as scotch tape or other covering and allowing the plaster of Paris to set, which takes place in about minutes, followed by heating the shoe in an oven to about 200 F. for fronrfi to 12 hours. This procedure will prevent any appreciable shrinkage of the shoe during the quick setting of the latex in this way. Thereafter, the cast of plaster of Paris can be broken out and the interior of the shoe cleaned by brushing it with a rotary power-driven brush.

,It is not deemed necessary to have the usual tongue provided beneath the shoe lacing 30,

'Of course, the shoe can be made into any final shape, such as a sandal, or may have any portions cut out therefrom, as for example by punchings through the upper wherever desired, to produce any desired style of shoe.

The shoe can be covered all over the same with an outer layer of leather in placeof the terry cloth l9, and can have patches or scraps of leather orfabric applied to form the final layer [-9, or theouter layer of: the shoe can have any desired colors or metal powder applied thereto. In use, the shoe produces, as a result of the molding and the wearing thereof, the usual pyramid 31 and the toe recesses 38 formed thereby at the innermost front of theinterior, when in use, support the ends of the toes, and, in a similar way, all of, the internal margin of the shoe acquires a curved outline 39 by the making thereof as well as the use therecfi-duetothe walked-in shaping thereo to corr y fit the foot. both as to upper and sole. r

, While I have described my invention above in detail I wish it to be understood that many changes may bemade therein without departing fromthe spirit of the same.

I claim:

1. The process which comprises, providing a flat stiff sheet having the shape of a human foot perimeter, building on said sheet a concave dish with sidesand an underneath portion, of plastic materials, said dish having fabric on the outside. thereof, following theapproximate marginal outline of said sheet, making afoot cover, securing the cover to the outside of said dish, removing the still sheet from the dish, and applying instead thereof a flexible sole .to the shoe.i

f2. The process whichfcomprises, providing a flat stiff sheet having theshape of a human foot perimeter, building on said sheet a concave dish with .sides and an underneath portion of plastic materials including latex, and having fabric on the'outside thereof following the approximate marginal outline of said sheet by molding the plastic materials of the dish onto thevfoot of the wearer to conform the dish to the-foot, making a foot cover, securing the cover to the outside of said dish, removing the stifl sheet from the dish, and applying instead thereof a'flexible sole to the shoe.

3. The process which comprises, providing a flat stiff substantially non-shrinking sheet having the shape of a human foot perimeter, building a concave dish of plastic materials on said sheet following the approximate peripheral outline of saidsheet to conform the dish to the footwhile the foot is resting thereon, making a foot cover, securing the cover to said dish. allowing the, materials to partially set; cutting a slit down the front of the shoe, removing thefoot therefrom, removing the stiff sheet from the, dish, and applying instead thereof a flexible sole. to the shoe. v

' 4. The process which comprises, providing a fiat stiil" substantially non-shrinking sheet having the shape of a human foot perimeter, building a concave dish of plastic materials on said sheet following the approximate peripheral outline of said sheet to conform the dish to the foot whilethe foot is resting thereon, makinga foot coversecuring the cover to said dish, allowing thematerials to partially set, cutting a slit down the front of: the shoe, removing the foot therefrom, removing the stiff sheet from the dish,

applying a sole to the shoe, placing the shoe on the foot while the said plastic materials are still somewhat soft, and walking on the shoe to produce a pyramid under the toe recess and toe impressions at the extreme front end of the shoe.

5. The process which comprises, providing a fiat stiff substantially non-shrinking sheet having the shape of a human foot perimeter, building a concave dish of plastic materials on said sheet following the approximate peripheral outline of said sheet, making a foot cover, securing the cover to said dish, removing the stiff sheet from the dish after the materials have hardened sufilciently to avoid any substantial subsequent shrinkage, and applying instead thereof a flexible sole to the shoe.

ALAN E. MURRAY.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

Number 15 Number 10 UNITED STATES PATENTS Name Date Falor July 26, 1927 Noble Sept. 9, 1930 Dunbar Mar. 17, 1936 Murray Feb. 14, 1939 Tietig Apr. 22, 1941 Austin 1- Nov. 17, 1942 Murray Oct. 19, 1943 Olson Dec. 12, 1944 Murray Mar. 19, 1946 Klaus July 9, 1946 FOREIGN PATENTS Country Date Great Britain Dec. 6, 1928 Great Britain Apr. 7, 1931 

